Ceramics in Triana and a visit to "The Mushrooms"

Sunday February 9 was a beautiful, sunny day with a high of 19C.  It really felt like early summer with the bright sun.

We headed down to the river to go to the Centro Cerámica Triana, a Ceramics Museum across the river in Triana.  We passed by the Museo de Bellas Artes which had a Sunday art market.

The Sevilla scene

The artist made jewellery and sculpture out of old vinyl records

We crossed the river to Triana.  We took note of the Sevilla Tower, an office building completed in 2015.  It is the tallest building in Andalusia and Sevilla, and the seventh tallest in Spain.

Sevilla Tower definitely dominates the landscape

Lots of people out on Sunday crossing the river in both directions

The legendary barrio of Triana is famous for its ceramic tiles and was once home to many of Sevilla's bullfighting and flamenco characters.

Just across the bridge is the Mercado de Triana

A few minutes from the Mercado, we came to our destination, the Centro Cerámica Triana.  The museum opened in 2014 and covers the history of ceramic production in Triana.  The museum is located in the same place which was occupied by the Santa Ana Ceramics factory.

Outside of the Museum

Tiles in the entrance

Beautiful museum design

The main floor section outlined how ceramics were made in Triana.  It noted that there were two clays used and one of them, the "blue clay", was extracted from the banks of the Guadalquivir River.  There were pictures of people kneading the clay with their feet.  There were a number of remnants of the kins used at the Santa Ana works.  The fuel used in the kilns changed over time from olive branches to pine.  There were over 20 ceramic factories located in Triana in the early part of the 20th century.  The golden age was in the 1920s just before the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929.  The last factory ceased operation in about 2010. 

Old kiln

 Four tiles- Cerámica Santa Ana (1940-1960) Painted

Signs of advertising panels and glazed tiles

The museum's permanent collection tracing the history of ceramics from the Middle Ages to the 20th century was located on the first floor.  A very interesting collection well displayed.

Urn (Up to 1890) Hand Painted

Artista tiles- First half of the 16th century

Two handled jar 19th century Painted

Card holder, Manuel Arellano, 1892

Tile with the signature of Niculoso Francisco Pisano (1504-1517)

Artista tiles- first half of 16th century- Glazed

Small storage-jar, Toledo? 15th century

Reservoir corner piece? 12-14 century

Near the windows with ceramic inserts

There was also a small exhibit of posters from the Bienal de Flamenco.  The festival was first celebrated in 1980.  Every two years, Sevilla celebrates the biggest Flamenco festival in the world.  It will take place over three weeks starting on September 4, 2020.

2020 poster

There was a video of a flamenco dancer performing on this poster

XIX Bienal de Flamenco- Ricardo Cadenas 2016

II Bienal de Flamenco- Francisco Moreno Galván 1982

After our visit to the Museum, we wandered a bit in the neighbourhood.  We passed by a few hotels located in a number of former ceramic factories.

A restaurant with beautiful tiles

We walked by a narrow Callejón de la Inquisición (Alley of the Inquisition).  The alley is a narrow passage near the Guadalquivir River.  It is located next to the Castle of San Jorge, which was once the headquarters of the Court of Inquisition and the Jail of Heretics.   The alley was where you were lead to either be jailed or burned alive at the stake.

Looking up the alley

Looking down the alley

We decided to have lunch in the Mercado de Triana, which was pretty buzzy.  The food stalls were closed but a number of small restaurants were open.  We had lunch at Bar La Muralla.

Lunch spot-- tables along an aisle in the market

We shared a salad and fried boquerones (anchovies) with some beer

 After lunch we crossed the river back to Sevilla.  We passed a beautiful church with gorgeous tiles.

Tiles galore

Triana side of the river

Sevilla side of the river

We sat in the sun for a while near the river.  Then we headed slowly back into the centre of the city, passing a number of interesting statues.

Antonio Mairena- Andaluz Universal 1990 -very expressive guy

Manolo Vazquez Torero de Sevilla 2003

We also walked by the Plaza de Toros, the oldest bullring in Spain (building began in 1758) and it was here, along with the bullring in Ronda, that bullfighting on foot began in the 18th century.

Plaza de Toros

Monument to W.A. Mozart (1791-1991)

We wandered down a passage and found an amazing circular apartment building with tiles and porticos.

Hidden from the street

Walking by the Cathedral on a sunny day

A very nice ceramic shop operated since 1952

Another beautiful church--Capilla de San José

Our late afternoon destination was the Metropol Parasol which opened in 2011 in Plaza de la Encarrnación.  It is known locally as las setas (the Mushrooms) and has become something of a city icon.  It was designed as a giant sunshade by German architect Jürgen Mayer-Hermann and it is the world's largest wooden structure.  It has 30 m-high mushroom like pillars and honeycombed roof.  We sat on the top of the stairs with many other folk, enjoying the Mushrooms and the sun.

Metropol Parasol--- Las Setas (the Mushrooms)

Selfie

Another part of the piece

 We meandered back to the apartment, passing some interesting buildings on our street.

Just up the street- lovely tiles

We rested for a bit and Alano made a lovely dinner of salmon, potatoes, salad and a glass of wine.
Enjoyable Sunday in Sevilla--first full day of sun!  It is a bonus that the sun sets just before 7:00 p.m., almost an hour longer than in Toronto.