Wednesday March 4 turned into a beautiful sunny day with a high of 21C. We decided to explore a new neighbourhood and visit the Palacio de Viana, a five century old palace with 12 courtyards. We also decided to have lunch near the Palace. It was about a 20 minute walk to the Palacio from the apartment.
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| Walking past the Roman Temple |
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| We passed another amazing church and former convent- Real Iglesia de San Pablo |
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| A quiet street in the San Andres neighbourhood |
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| We passed another amazing courtyard |
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| A dove for Peace |
We walked to the Iglesia de San Agustin. In 1328, the Augustinians moved to this church. After their dissolution in the 19th century, the church was transferred to the Dominicans. It is undergoing a lengthy process of restoration.
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| Wonderful stone designs in the Plaza |
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| San Augustín |
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| Inside of the church |
We had lunch at Taberna de Viana outside the Palacio de Viana. Luckily, the sun came out in full force and we were able to eat outside very comfortably.
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| Busy at lunchtime |
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| We shared some cod and fried anchovies-- both traditional Andalusian food favourites (the Palacio is behind me) |
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| Outside of Palacio de Viana |
Admission is free between 2:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. on Wednesdays. Unfortunately, there was only a tour in Spanish of the house but there was a self-directed tour of the 12 courtyards which take up over half of the property. We also were able to see into a number of rooms of the house.
Viana Palace was formerly known as the Rejas de Don Gome Palace in honour of one of its first owners. What makes this home unique is that it has the finest collection of Córdoba courtyards. The Palace was declared a National Monument of Historical and Artistic Interest in 1980 and a Historical-Artistic Garden in 1983.
The palace was erected in the XVIth century by Don Gome de Figueroa y Córdoba, first Lord of Villaseca and his son Don Luis Gómez de Córdoba y Figueroa. It was built on the site of some XIVth century houses. Later owners expanded the house and in 1703, one of them obtained the rank of marquis of Villaseca. In the XIXth century, the palace passed to the Saavedra family, marquises of Viana, who in 1980 sold it to the Casa Provincial de Ahorros de Córdoba, today Cajasur. The floor plan is very irregular due to the inclusion of twelve beautiful patios and a garden.
Each of the courtyards had a description in Spanish, English and French. We had a wonderful afternoon exploring the amazing gardens and seeing how the 1% (maybe 0.5%) lived in Córdoba.
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| Reception Courtyard |
There also were stables complete with old carriages and harnesses.
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| Stables off the Reception Courtyard |
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| Ready to go |
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| Courtyard of the Cats |
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| Beautiful Cyprus tree |
One of the rooms off the Courtyard of the Cats was a kitchen, equipped with old pots and pans.
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| Courtyard of the Oranges-- a lovely garden |
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| Lots of water features in these gardens |
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| The orange trees are my favourites |
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| Beautifully landscaped |
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| We could peer into the Porcelain Room. The cupboard displays part of an East Indian Company dinner service, presented by H.M. King Alfonso XIII to the second Marquis of Viana. |
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| Tapestry on one wall of the Porcelain Room |
The Mosaic Room has a Roman mosaic from the 4th century brought to the palace from another estate owned by the family by the 2nd Marquis of Viana in 1923.
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| Wonderful Roman mosaic |
There was a room called the Tobias Room, which we could look into. The paintings on the walls depict scenes from the story of Tobias. The large porcelain vase on the table was from the East Indian Company.
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| Tobias Room |
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| Pictures on the wall of the Tobias Room |
There was a small room called the Signature Room, which takes its name from the Guest book which contains the signatures of illustrious visitors.
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The Signature Room
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| Courtyard of the Bars |
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| One can look into this courtyard from the street |
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| Another orange tree with orange blossoms |
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| Cypress plant structure in the Courtyard of the Madama |
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| Very large courtyard of the Columns |
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| Would be great for an outdoor party |
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| Wonderful stone designed floor |
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| The Garden was huge and magnificent |
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| Beautifully landscaped |
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| Water feature |
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| Beautiful flowers |
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| 400 year old white oak tree-- magnificent |
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| Courtyard of the Pool |
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| Courtyard of the Well |
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| Small courtyard of the Gardeners |
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| Courtyard of the Chapel |
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| Courtyard of the Chapel-- beautiful mosaic on the wall |
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| We could peer into the small chapel |
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| Beautifully decorated small chapel |
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| Another part of the small chapel |
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| We could peer into a dining room off the Courtyard of the Chapel |
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| Courtyard of the archive with fountain with tiles |
We spent a very peaceful couple of hours wandering through the courtyards and gardens. The smell of orange blossoms was lovely this time of year. Having a warm, sunny day was perfect.
After our visit to the Palacio, we headed back to our 'hood. We had been thinking of an ice cream/gelato but the place near us was closed on Wednesdays. Instead we went to La Bicicleta, around the corner, for a pear, pineapple and ginger drink. Fruit smoothies are very popular in southern Spain.
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| At La Bicicleta |
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| Making the smoothies-- outside window too |
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| With our drink |
After a rest, we headed out to dinner at Regardera, a highly recommended restaurant. It is our last night in Córdoba, before we head to Madrid on Thursday.
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| We ate early at 8:00 p.m. We were the first customers but there were four other tables filled by the time we left. |
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| Warm asparagus salad (both white and green asparagus with Iberico ham) |
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| Alano had amazing lamb meatballs with couscous. Waiter poured the tasty broth over the lamb. |
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I had an amazing piece of hake with a lighter than air lacy tempura, foam curry sauce and lots of vegetables.
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| Happy diners |
It was one of the best meals we have had on the trip so far. We each had a glass of a lovely red wine from an area near Valencia and an espresso to top off the meal. The restaurant was on the River and only a five minute walk from our apartment. Our week in Córdoba has been excellent. It is such a beautiful city. We were thrilled to have had wonderful weather on our last day and the Palacio Viana visit and a great dinner were the perfect endings to our week. Tomorrow we head to Madrid. It is only a two hour train ride. We will be there for a week. Hope you'll join us there.
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