Visit to the Mezquita-Catedral

Tuesday March 3 started with a bit of sun but turned cloudy and it was cooler than we thought.  High (at best) of 17C.

View from our deck-- cafe across the street and bridge over the River to the Centre of Contemporary Art

Our main destination for the day was the Mezquita-Catedral (Mosque-Cathedral), which is Córdoba's crown jewel.  It was the one monument we wanted to revisit from our 2015 stay.   It is one of the world's great works of Islamic architecture built at a time when Muslims, Jews and Christians lived side by side and when Córdoba flourished as a city.

In the 8th century, the Mezquita (Great Mosque) was the crowning glory of Muslim architecture in the West.  It contains an amazing labyrinth of red and white Moorish arches.  The Catholic Cathedral placed in its centre does not destroy the impact of this "forest" of architectural pillars.  There are about 1000 of these pillars.

The Caliph of Córdoba, Abd el-Rahman I built the Mosque in 785 on the site of the former Visigoth Basilica of San Vincente, which in turn had a replaced a Roman temple.  The Mosque was extended by four different Umayyad Rulers over the next two centuries.  The Mezquita-Catedral occupies an area of about 24,000 square metres.

In 1236, the Mezquita was converted into a Christian church after Córdoba was recaptured by Fernando III of Castilla.   In 1271, the Christians modify, rather than destroy the mosque.  In 1523, work on a Gothic/Renaissance style cathedral inside the Mezquita begins.  It took over 200 years to complete the Cathedral.

One side of the immense Mezquita-Catedral

Wonderful arches, doors and designs on the outside

Bell Tower-originally built by Abd ar-Rahman III in 951-52 as the Mezquita's minaret.  It was encased in a outer shell and heightened by the Christians in the 16th and 17th centuries.

Inside of the courtyard with orange trees- near the entrance to the Mezquita

The addition of about 50 Christian chapels disrupted the architectural harmony of the Mezquita.  Some were added in the 13th century and were family crypts.  Carlos V (1500-1558) ordered that part of the mosque be torn down to make way for the Cathedral.  Apparently, he later regretted his decision, saying that "what you are building here can be found anywhere, but what you have destroyed exists nowhere."  Construction of the Cathedral began in 1523 in the Gothic style, although later additions were in baroque styles and there are some Renaissance features.  In 1593-1664, the 10th century minaret is reinforced and rebuilt as a Renaissance-baroque bell tower.

The amazing Mezquita arches- terracotta and white striped arches are supported by 856 pillars salvaged from Roman and other ruins

Along one side of the wall where one enters are a series of Christian chapels with paintings, tapestries
 and religious art.

Beautiful tapestries

The final Mezquita had 19 doors along its north side, filling it with light.  Now nearly all the doorways are closed off which somewhat diminishes the vibrant effect of the red and white archways.

I never get tired of the arches

Chapel art

Detail from the added Cathedral portion

Muslim arches and baroque ceiling 

Quote from Pope John Paul II in May 21, 1985: " the celebration of the 12th centennial offers an auspicious occasion to manifest the fraternity among men who profess their faith in a single God". (my attempt at translation)

From another chapel on the other side of the building

Integration of Muslim arches into the Cathedral section

We then walked over to see the former prayer area for the Caliphs and their retinue.

The mihrab- the beautiful prayer niche which faces Mecca was added in the 10th century.  There are gold mosaic cubes - a gift from the Byzantine Emperor.

Adjacent bay to the mihrab

The ceiling of the mihrab was very beautiful.  The bay immediately in front of the mihrab and the bays to either side form the maksura, the area where the caliphs and their retinues prayed.  The mihrab and maksura are the most beautifully and intricately decorated parts of the mosque.

This section was incredible

Section where old ceiling was retained

Another beautiful feature

There was a small area that had archaeological finds from the Mezquita dating back many centuries.

So much history

Cathedral organ

The alter

Mahogany choir stalls depicting scenes from the Bible

Choir with baroque ceiling (choir built in the 16th and 17th centuries) --- so different from the ceiling in the mosque section

There was also a section under glass that housed a mosaic from the Visigoth Basilica.

Ceiling with many different art styles

Looking up

Stained glass window near exit

One can understand why the Mezquita-Catedral was declared a World Heritage Site in 1984.  It is the largest and most significant Islamic monument in the western world, and third largest mosque in the world.  The interior is very serene in some parts and almost surreal in others; the mix of styles and ornamentation all in one building is mesmerising.  Definitely, one of my favourites.

Outside the Mezquita again

Horse and carriage-they seem to do well in Córdoba

We then headed to our favourite fish store in the San Basilio neighbourhood.

Clams and shrimps galore

We got another salmon steak

After we took the fish back to the apartment, we headed to the Jewish quarter to have a late lunch at Casa Mazal, a restaurant serving Sephardic food.  We had eaten there in 2015 and wanted to return.

Entrance to Casa Mazal

Lovely patio, but it was too cold to eat outside

Menorah detail

Alano

Vegetable couscous

Lovely pumpkin soup to strat

We then wandered some more and entered a courtyard that was part of the Faculty of Philosophy and Letters of  the University of Córdoba.

Courtyard of the U of Córdoba

Quote from J.K. Rowling!!: Roughly translates as: "It is the quality of one's convictions and not the number of followers that determines success."

We then walked over to one of the narrowest streets in the Jewish quarter- The Calleja de las Flores, which is also a dead end street.

View towards the Bell Tower

Looking the other way

We then went to visit the Vodafone store where Alano added minutes and data to our SIM card.  The maximum time for a SIM card is four weeks and we will be in Spain for 7 weeks.  Tip to folks travelling in Europe-- a SIM card is an incredible value.  The total of two four-week purchases of 8GB of data and 800 minutes each (including international calls) will be 35 euros (covers our entire trip).  A package from Bell (with much less data and far fewer minutes) would have been around $200 Canadian for the trip.  No contest!

We wandered some more and then came back to the apartment at around 6:30 p.m.  Following some anchovy appetizers, Alano made a delicious dinner of salmon, green beans, and salad.