Another Gem of a Museum

Tuesday February 11 was a carbon copy of yesterday.  Blue sky, lots of sun and a high of 21C.
We headed off to the Feria Market to pick up some fish and vegetables for dinner.

Filleting our dorade

Wall graffiti

We headed to the Plaza de los Venerables where we wanted to have a late lunch before going to a small museum on the Plaza.  We had a bit of trouble finding the Plaza, which is located in the oldest part of town, but managed to get there after asking folks for directions.  We had lunch at Casa Román, one of the oldest tapas restaurants in the city.  It dates back to 1934.

Casa Román

Inside with hanging hams and wine
We sat outside in the sun and had some cod, grilled aubergine and a beer.   The food was very good and it was lovely having lunch outside.
Alano at lunch--- we had already started eating when I remembered to take a photo
We then went to visit the Hospital de los Venerables Sacerdotes (Hospital of Venerable Priests) known as the Hospital of the Venerable.  It is a baroque 17th century building (built in 1675) which served as a residence for priests until the 1970s.  In 1627, the Brotherhood of Silence (Sevilla) decided to provide for elderly, poor and disabled priests.  They first rented a house for this purpose and then build a new shelter- the Hospital.  The Hospital was funded by the Brotherhood, charity and the monarchy until 1805 when it could no longer be adequately supported.  In 1840, the hospital briefly became a textile factory and former residents were moved to the Charity Hospital. After complaints by the Brotherhood, a Royal Order returned the property to the Brotherhood in 1848 and the priests returned to their old home.

There is a Chapel attached to the residence which is ornately decorated.

Outside of the Hospital de Venerables Sacerdotes
Since 1991, the hospital has been the home of the Focus-Abengoa Foundation.  It restored the building between 1987 and 1991.  In July 2007, the Velázquez Centre opened with the acquisition by the Focus Foundation of a painting of Santa Rufina that is attributed to Diego Velázquez and valued at 12.4 million euros.  Some of the hospital rooms were renovated to exhibit the Santa Rufina and other paintings in the permanent collection.  There was an excellent audio guide to the hospital and Velázquez Centre paintings.

Beautiful courtyard with a fountain
Tuscan arches on marble columns
The Chapel was amazing.  I've never seen this type of trompe d'oeil mural on a church wall.  The colours and figures were fabulous.

The domed ceiling was spectacular
Lots of detailed scenes


Organ dates to the beginning of the 20th century


Close up of the ceiling

Angels about to take off

Figures in coins
The Last Supper picture


Detailed sculptures


Another view of the courtyard

Poster of painting done by Bartolomé Murillo, ca 1665, of Justino de Neve, a canon of the Cathedral who founded the Hospital de los Venerables.  He was a friend of Murillo to whom he gave important commissions.

Original Mudejar tiles
After touring the main section and the church we went into the Velázquez Centre which had about a dozen paintings which make up the permanent collection.  A very spectacular small group of paintings- "each a masterpiece of its genre".
Francisco de Zurbarán, Fray Pedro de Oña 1629
Francisco de Zurbarán, Inmaculada, 1640


Diego Velázquez, Imposición de la casulla a san Ildefonso, 1622-23
Diego Velázques, Inmaculada Concepción, 1617

Diego Velázquez, Santa Rufina- 1630

Bartolonmé E. Murillo, Santa Catalina -1650
Francisco Pacheco, Santa Catalina- 1608
The paintings were superb.

Stairway to upper level with original tiles
Ceiling

There were a number of pictures by Lucas Valdes (1661-1724).  One showed wealthy patrons visiting the elderly priests in the Hospital.
Asistencia a los Sacerdotes en La Enfermería- Lucas Valdes (1661-1724)

A picture of the founder Justino de Neve

There was one last very peaceful and quiet room on the main floor with wonderful tiles on the walls (just near the exit).
Lovely small room near the exit - dated 1861

Checking out the tiles--- original ones from the 17th century
It was a lovely building, beautifully preserved with a lot of history and art.  We would definitely recommend a visit if one is in Sevilla.


We started our walk back to the apartment.  Each time we try and take different routes.  We have also taken to peering into buildings as we pass them.  There are often elaborate tiles and wonderful courtyards.  Many have the year of construction displayed.

1867 courtyard

We wandered some more and got a gelato/sorbetto at Amorino (many locations in Europe and New York).

Pistachio for Alano and chocolate (non-dairy) for me

We walked back to the apartment and Alano made dinner, while I worked on the blog.  More artichokes (we never get them this good in Toronto), dorade, potatoes, salad and a glass of wine.
Perfecto!

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